Eudolf eiokemeyee



(Mode1.)

R, EIOKEMEYER'.

Devioe for Use with Sewing Machines in Sewing- Linings into Hats.

Patented March ZQML METERS PHOTO-LITHOGRAPHER. WASNXNG'TDNMD C.

- UNITED STATES ATENT FFICE.

RUDOLF EIOKEMEYER, OF YONKERS, NEW YORK.

DEVICE FOR USE WlTdSEWlNG-MACHINES IN SEWING LININGS INTO HATS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 239,319, dated March 29, 1881,

Application filed April 9, 1880.

10 all whom it may concern: I

Be it known that I, RUDoLF EIOKEMEYER, of Yonkers, in the county of Westchester and State of New York, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Devices for Use with Sewing-Machines in Sewing Linings into Hats; and I do hereby declare that the following specification, taken in connection with the drawings furnished and forming a part of the same, is a clear, true, and complete description of my invention.

The object of mypresent invention is to provide meanswhereby a turned flaring sweatlining with a doubled edge may be accurately I 5 and neatlystitched directly to the hat'body,

and so that the line of stitching may be uniformly located with reference to the inside crease-line of the doubled flaring lining, and also so that the creased edge of the latter will be maintained in close contact with the rounded inner edge of the hat-brim during the stitching operation. It is well known that the doubling of the edge of the lining, and stretching, flaring, or flanging it in a machine designed for that purpose, produces a well-defined interior crease-line.

Heretofore, as'shown and described in my Letters Patent No. 182,182, dated September 12, 1876, Ihave relied for a guiding or gaging effect upon the contact of the edge of the lining which is adjacentto the crease-line with the inner end of a gage-slot, as shown in Fig. 5 of the drawings of said patent, and therefore the lining, in passing through that gage, is considerably flattened, thus more or less impairing the distinctive character of the creaseline and of the turned edge on the opposite or right side of the lining, which prevents said turned edge of the lining from lying as snugly and as neatly upon the hat-brim as is desirable.

With my present device I rely mainly upon a gaging effect attained by the contact of the edge of a peculiarly-constructed lining-gage with the crease-line of the lining; and the main feature of my inventionconsists in the combination, with a suitable presser-foot, of a creaseline gage. The simplestform of crease-linegage consists of a plate having a curved guiding or.

gaging edge which projects do wn Ward and rearward from the rear edge of the main face of the presser-foot, for engaging in close contact with (Model) the crease-line of a lining having a doubled flanged or flared edge when said lining is properlyinserted with reference to the gage, its rear side upward and resting upona hat properly interposed between the flanged portion of said lining and a suitable work-plate.

In proportion as the doubled edged lining is flared or stretched the more difficult it is for the fold to be opened in its passage along the gageto the needle, and although such opening of the fold may be effected by the fingers of a skilled operative, I have devised means whereby said fold is automatically laid open and held in an opened condition until fully entered beneath the presscr-foot adjacent to the needle, and in that connection my invention further I consistsin the combination, with a presser-foot and a crease-line gage, of a fold-opener. This fold-opener,in. its simplestform,consists of a pointed extension of the crease-line gage and a V-shaped plate, which underlies said pointed extension, for aftordin g an intermediate space, through which the folded portion of the lining is entered along the crease-line gage on its way 7 5 to the needle.

To more particularly describe luyinvention, I will refer to the accompanying drawings, in which- Figure 1 is a front View ofa detached presserbar, having thereon a presser-foot embodying my improvements. Fig. 2 is a top or plan view of the same. Fig. 3 is a transverse section of the presser-foot on a line across the needle-slot. Fig. 4 is an end view of the foldopener. Fig. 5 represents, in section, a portion of a hat with a lining in position as during the process of stitching. Fig. 6 represents the same finished and the lining turned iinward.

The presser-foot A has preferably two separate faces, practically at right angles to each other, and these are separated by a space for the receptionof a lining turned wrong side upward. These two faces are connected by means of a metallic loop, all substantially as shown, described, and claimed in my prior Letters Patent before herein referred to. I have shown the gage and fold-opener constructed partially integral with the presser-foot; but they may obviously be separately constructed and provided with screws or other means for ready attachment to the presser-foot. The

crease-line gage a, as in this instance constructed, is a downward and rearward exten-' Fig. 5.) Fair results will be attainable if the crease-line gage be extended but a short distance from the needle-slot 0, provided the operative is sufficiently skilled to properly manipulate the lining; but the best results are attainable with said gage prolonged to a point, as at a, with a longitudinal V-shaped aperture, a between it and the edge of the upper face of the presser-foot, for the reception of a part of that portion of the lining which receives the stitches and lies between the creaseline and the adjacent edge of the lining. The fold-opener is in this instance composed in .part of a metal plate, (I, attached to an ex-- tended end of the upper face of the presserfoot, and bent downward and thence upward to afford a V-shaped space, and in part by the point a of the crease-line gage,which centrally occupies said V-shaped space.

In operation, a hat being in position on a suitable angular work-plate, and the upper or main face of the presser-foot being in contact with the interior side crown of the hat adjacent to the brim, and the auxiliary or side face of the presser-foot being in contact with the adjacent surface of the brim, alining is inserted, with its fold opened,between the point a and the plate 0?, and then advanced beneath the upper face of the presser-foot, with the main portion of the lining extended laterally through the open space 0 between the two faces of the presser-foot. The sharp lower edge of the crease-line gage a adjacent to the needle fully occupies the crease-line of the lining, and not only presses it snugly upon the brim,but also predetermines, and with uniformity limits, the position of the stitch-line with reference to said crease-line.

Inasmuch as the crease-line gage constitutes a rearward and downward extension of the upper or main face of the presser-foot, the inner surface of said gage can be relied upon to drawings, although I prefer said additional face for attaining the best results. Should the auxiliary face be dispensed with, it will be desirable to provide a support for the outlying main portion of the lining, substantially corresponding to that which is afiorded by the upper surface of the lower arm, on which the auxiliary or side face of the presser-foot shown is mounted.

Inasmuch as my fold-opener will operate as such regardless of the particular character of the lining-gage, and can obviously, with a slight change in form, be adapted to use with a lining-gage in which contact with the edges is relied upon for a gaging effect, as with the lining guide or gage shown in Fig. 5 of the drawings in my said Letters Patent No.182,182, I do not limit myself to said fold opener in combination with the crease-line gage,but also claim the same broadly in combination with any equivalent lining-gage and presser-foot.

Having thus described my invention, I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent 1. The combination, with a presser-foot, of a crease-line gage, substantially as described, whereby a doubled edged flanged sweat-lining with a defined crease-line is accurately presented upon a hat to stitching mechanism, as set forth.

2. The combination, with a presser-foot and a hat-lining gage, of a fold-opener, substantially as descrily d.

3. The comic -ation, with a presser-foot, of a crease-line gage and a fold-opener, substantially as described,whereby the fold of a doubled edge of a flanged sweat is automatically opened and accurately delivered and presented upon a hat along the crease-line gage to stitching mechanism, as set forth.

RUDOLF EIGKEMEYER. Witnesses:

HENRY OSTERHELD, GEORGE NARR. 

